Chosen Solution
Hey guys, I’ve got an early 2015 Macbook Pro 13” that is randomly going to sleep. I took it to the Apple store in Syracuse NY and after installing a clean version of Catalina they did a display and LCD replacement for free (the guy working with me is really chill and I think that he did it for the kicks for a free screen.). They told me that the next step would be to replace the top case. I really have no idea how that is suppose to help but they said it would cost $475 so I walked on that deal. I did a good amount of research and I have good reason to believe that it is the hall sensor going bad or something. So I took it to a local repair shop and they said they would look at it and tell me how much it would cost. After a whole work week they finally got back to me telling me that it was soldered onto the board and they couldn’t do anything for me besides replace the logic board. I went to the store while they had it open to see what it looked like. Turns out they never actually took the logic board out so they never actually saw the hall sensor and they refused to take the logic board out because they said that to get it out they would have to take everything else out, like the battery, fan, and what ever else, which I’m going to hit X to doubt that. So I took it home and I’m thinking I’ll just do the repair myself. I’ve been working on computers since I was 12 so it’s not completely out of my league. Through all of my research it seems to me that it cannot be that hard to replace because it does not look to me like it is soldered to the board, granted as of writing this I have not seen it in person. That is all to say, is the hall sensor soldered to the board or just connected to it? EDIT: Here’s the screen shots from Coconutbattery the first one is with charger the second is without.
EDIT 2: So I took it do a guy who happened to have a 2015 MacBook Pro 13” around that he could take apart and confirmed that the PCB is glued to the logic board and that the only way to repair it is to unsolder the IC itself and to replace that. I think that I’ll go to iPad Rehab who happens to be actually pretty close to where I live. Here are the photos I took, little did you guys know i’m actually a photographer.
@waspenatorjr it should just be connected to it. Take a good look at your I/O board (both sides but focus on the side that faces the lid) since that would be the perfect place for it. If you cannot find it there check the logic board on the area that I marked as J5250 for the sensor. I currently do not have a board available for better picture so if you decide to check yours take some good clear pictures and post those with your question. I marked U3310 since that is the IC that is part of that the circuitry as well. Probably not relevant yet :-)
Adding images to an existing question
@waspenatorjr - I would do some testing here to see if the hall switch is working as it should. Take a magnet and slide it along the edge where the ports are the display should wink out when you hit the sensor. Slide it off and the display should turn back on. If it is then I don’t think your issue is the sensor. You might want to check your systems battery. Run this gem of an app CoconutBattery post a snapshot of the main window here for us to see, one with the charger connected charging and a second off battery only. Depending on what you discover your battery may need replacing. Last thing is see if resetting the SMC help things here How to reset the System Management Controller (SMC) on your Mac
